Whisky Cocktails

Patience Gould takes a look at how mixologists are making Scotch whisky the very heart of a cocktail

The author, who remains anonymous, of Cocktails: How To Make Them, published in 1898, stated that: “The addition of vermouth was the first move toward the blending of cocktails.” In his book, Imbibe, David Wondrich considers that, while the Martini became the standard-bearer of this early movement “it was the Manhattan that was the first out of the trenches”.

It’s not surprising that the advent of vermouth in the US around the mid-19th century led to other spirituous additions – imagine how boring just having a vermouth on the rocks with a slice would be? Enter gin, Cognac and whisky, all adding a certain spice – not to say a much-needed alcoholic boost – to a drink. 

In terms of cocktails, arguably the Manhattan is to whisky what the Martini is to gin and when it comes to whisky cocktails it is on a pedestal on its own. While its place of birth is not in doubt, much like the Martini its inception is shrouded in stories which are largely apocryphal. It was also known as The Turf Club Cocktail and the Jockey Club – but today this ingenious mix of whisky, bitters and sweet vermouth is simply known as the Manhattan. Interestingly too the vast majority of recipes from the pre-Prohibition era do not specify the type of whisky to use, and these days it’s very much up to the consumer. 

As Wondrich notes in his book: “As much of a rye partisan as I am, I’ve nonetheless found that the choice of rye or bourbon is less important than the choice of 80 or 100 proof whiskey.” In short, the stronger the better, so no surprises then that it’s good with Scotch, which has more of a weather-beaten taste generally than the sweeter, fruitier-tasting American whiskeys.

As far as William Grant is concerned, at any rate, its Scotch whisky Monkey Shoulder – a triple-blended malt – is perfect for the Manhattan, as well as the other classic whisky cocktails, the Rob Roy and, of course, the Old Fashioned. 

Indeed, at key musical events around the UK, the Monkey Trike (an electric tricycle, pictured below) is ever-present, dispensing Old Fashions, dispelling at a stroke all preconceptions about whether Scotch should be used in cocktails.

“Our mission is to bring folk into Scotch and there’s two sides to that coin – attracting new folk to Scotch and Scotch drinking folk to cocktails,” says the company’s brand ambassador, James O’Connor. “There’s a lot of snobbishness when it comes to Scotch, even mixing it with cola – and that’s a really good taste combination.”

 Cocktail guru and trainer Wayne Collins, Mixxit – global manager at Maxxium UK – maintains that Scotch whisky is the most challenging spirit in terms of making cocktails. “You’ve got be a bit clever and to really know Scotch whisky, your malts as well as your blends – for instance if you try to make a Rob Roy with an Islay you have a train wreck on your hands, as the smokiness is overpowering. But using the likes of the Famous Grouse it’s fantastic.”

At Maxxium, the UK distribution partnership between the Edrington Group and Jim Beam, one of the single malts Collins does a lot of work with is, of course, the renowned Islay dram Laphroiag, and a revelation here is how well the whisky goes with orange juice. “For instance in a Whisky Sour if you use half lemon and half orange juice with Laphroaig it’s an excellent result.”

Undoubtedly, though, it’s the Manhattan which is Collins’s ‘desert island drink’. “It’s such a majestic drink and it works with all the whiskies – Scotch, rye and bourbon – and the early recipes just specify ‘whisky’, not the type.” 

Big blends

Also in the Collins armoury is The Macallan and the 10 Year Old makes a great Manhattan. “With the big blends and big tasting malts it has to be sweet vermouth in the Rob Roy – although a blend such as Cutty Sark, because it is lighter, works well with dry vermouth.” 

On the American whiskey front, Collins works with Jim Beam, Maker’s Mark and Knob Creek. “Bourbon on the whole is easier to work with, whereas with Scotch you’ve really got to know its DNA – what type of casks it’s been ageing in. In terms of the panoply of tastes it’s extremely complex.” Furthermore, Collins firmly believes Maker’s Mark is the perfect bourbon for the Mint Julep – and that’s due to its “abv and lighter taste” generally. 

Certain tasty revelations have come to Collins during his work with these whiskies and one is how well pineapple juice goes with the Orkney single malt, Highland Park, and what a great Whisky Punch you can make using either Famous Grouse or Black Grouse. 

“People actually think this is a rum-based Punch,” says Collins.  “It’s all about rediscovery though. If you think back to the old days and the cargos of exotic fruits, including pineapples, that would arrive at the Glasgow docks – and the locals would mix these with their Scotch.”

Over in the Pernod Ricard-owned Chivas Brothers camp, brand ambassador Max Warner has been fashioning cocktails with Chivas Regal for almost 10 years now and still finds it “very exciting to be working on such a luxury brand”. 

As Asia is now one of the French multinational’s leading regions it’s not surprising that green tea has come under scrutiny. 

Myths to be dispelled

“There are a lot of challenges and certain myths to be dispelled – some still think it’s sacrilegious to mix Scotch and some folk not in the know still find Scotch overpowering taste-wise, so a cocktail can make it more palatable – a cocktail is crafted for the senses.”

It’s good to know that so much mixing activity is ongoing with whisky per se, but particularly Scotch, as it takes an age to break down long-held notions, particularly one that maintains Scotch – let alone a single malt – should never be mixed. Not even with water. 

But as one chap told me many moons ago: “It’s typical of the English to take two of Scotland’s greatest traditions – Scotch and golf – and turn them into denizens of snobbism.” 

Isn’t it just.