Rum has rightfully earned its reputation as the party animal of the spirits world. It’s the drink that likes to mix; the ingredient that puts the punch into the punchbowl; the glass of sunshine that evokes the warmth and personality of the countries in which it is produced.

But, as the category has matured over the years, so rum has developed a more serious side and, while it still loves nothing more than to socialise with mixers at parties, it has started to find its loner side – that aspect of its being which is more introspective and thoughtful.

This is the rum that has dared to captivate a whole new audience with its claims to connoisseurship, and there’s no doubt that it is enticing ‘serious’ spirits drinkers who are more often associated with whiskies and Cognacs.

There’s plenty of evidence to support its audacity, with IWSR data showing dark rum’s compound annual growth rate to September 2011 (the latest available figures) up 6.2%, ahead of total rum’s 4.8%.

Leading volume

In terms of countries, the IWSR data shows India leading the global volume consumption figures with 45 million of the global total 96 million 9-litre cases, up 21%, followed by the Philippines (15 million cases), US (5 million) and Spain (4 million).

If more proof were needed of rum’s surging popularity, look no further than Drinks International’s Millionaires’ Club 2013, which shows most million-case brands in growth – some double-digit – while league table leader Bacardi is fighting off aggressive 5% growth from nearest rival Tanduay, which is just 200,000 cases short of toppling the giant.

But that could soon change. As Drinks International went to press news was emerging online of four new rums from Bacardi, although the company said it had no comment to make at this time.

It seems no geographic region remains untouched by rum’s allure – even Antarctica, from which self-styled global rum ambassador Ian Burrell has just returned from introducing Pusser’s to the penguins.

He is excited by the turn aged rums are taking as production techniques improve and producers look to cask management and ageing to draw in more discerning consumers. “The target audience is becoming more discerning and calling for rum brands by name. Brands are creating great awareness within the category and we are seeing growth in the premium sector with more sipping rums being called for. 

“There’s also a rise in rum-focused bars. When I started out you were lucky to see four rums on the back bar, now there might be 20. 

“Dark and golden rums are definitely going down the same route as whisky and cognac. Cognac is for sipping after dinner, warmed by a hand around the glass. There are rums that are being promoted and pushed and sipped straight in this way. Or rum served with just a couple of ice cubes. 

“People are looking more at quality, not quantity. If a spirit’s going to be premium you want value for money. A 12-year-old rum is going to be a lot cheaper than a 12-year-old single malt but you’re still getting that full-bodied spirit.” 

But Burrell points out that a lot of the marketing money over the years has gone into white rum, with aged rums not being a major part of the economy. 

“Now they are becoming popular they are being depleted, so prices will have to go up. Rums have only been set aside for the past 20 years, so I predict prices will go up for a short space of time until rum from some years ago have been set aside. Some quite well-known rum brands have had to take age statements off because they could not keep up.”

Respecting age

Famously, J Wray & Nephew (now part of the Campari stable) last year launched the limited-edition Appleton Estate 50 Year Old Jamaica Independence Reserve Rum – believed to be the oldest in the world and firmly targeted at the connoisseur. It has also promised a 100-year-old off the back of that, which will be no mean feat given the evaporation levels in the hot Caribbean countries.

Andrea Conzonato, chief marketing officer at Gruppo Campari, says: “Many consumers are still not familiar with the concept of rums as premium aged spirits that can either add great complexity to cocktails or can be enjoyed neat. 

“We therefore seek to educate on what sets our rums apart from others and how to appreciate and enjoy our rums. 

“One area where we pride ourselves is in the fact that we use the minimum ageing system, whereby if there is an age statement on our package that age refers to the youngest rum in the blend, which is an assurance of quality and distinguishes us from many of our competitors who follow the average or solera age system.”

As Mark Geary, global brand director for Edrington-owned Brugal, points out, production methods are becoming increasingly complex as the move towards connoisseur-style rums gains pace and says age is important to give depth and smoothness to a rum.

“We are becoming more sophisticated in the way we manage the wood, using specific cask types such as ex-bourbon, Pedro Ximenex and Oloroso casks. We are ageing differently.”

Brugal is releasing the limited-edition Papa Andrés rum as part of its 125th anniversary celebrations, made with rums that have previously only been consumed by the Brugal family during their private celebrations. Only 500 bottles are going out, priced between $1,000 and $1,200 in GTR, Asia, the US, domestically in the Dominican Republic and in parts of Europe.

Geary says: “One looks to create a halo effect through limited editions. It reinforces to consumers the quality of product you can get in rum.

“There are certain perceptions people have of rum that we shatter with the type of rum we are producing. There’s a big change in quality. In the past, people have seen rum as something you maybe throw into the punchbowl with fruit juice and put an umbrella in. That’s almost rum’s childhood and it’s now growing into a category.

“Undeniably there’s a feeling among the drinks industry that rum is going to be the next category to break through in terms of spirits. You can see that from investment levels.”

Awakening markets

It is also obvious in terms of the markets that rum is starting to awaken. There are pockets of Latin America where Geary says rum is taking over from local spirits. “In Chile rum is larger than Pisco and that’s happening in Peru. It’s all down to quality and fashionability.” 

Asia, too, is front of mind for many rum brands when it comes to growing sales. Brugal 1888 won the inaugural Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit competition just months after its launch in Asian markets and Geary says Brugal is doing some “seeding work” in China, where there is a already a heavy focus on Cognac and whisky.

Campari’s Gonzonato says: “There is still a lot of opportunity in the ‘traditional’ rum markets, but I believe Asia is ripe to adopt a rum ‘culture’ per se. But I see this in the higher end areas such as aged rums, which positions our company perfectly for this growth opportunity.” 

Over at Diageo, Samantha Reader, global category director for rums and CEO of Zacapa, points to the trend towards connoisseurship as a result of a focus on increased consumer education “from rum brands and the passion of the bartending community – they act as advocates and ambassadors every day, sharing their knowledge and expertise with inquisitive consumers.”

She adds that specific serve suggestions are made for all the Diageo rums. “In the case of Zacapa 23, it is best served simply over a single large lump of pure clean ice so that the beautiful rich liquid isn’t over-diluted by ice melt.  

“Zacapa XO should be enjoyed neat to fully enjoy the richness and depth that the ageing in French oak Cognac casks gives this rum. The choice of glassware is also important to optimise enjoyment and enhance the ritual – for Zacapa XO we’ve developed a specific glass with Riedel to ensure none of the amazing nose is lost.”

While the focus of development at the top end is clearly on building dark and golden rums’ premium credentials to allow them to sit shoulder to shoulder with Cognac and whisky, rum is never going to lose its sense of fun to be drunk with mixers, which remains at its heart and is key to growing consumption among younger consumers. 

Reader says: “Of course cocktails are important and our mixologists and brand ambassadors are always experimenting with new flavours and techniques to bring to life the quality and flavour of the liquids. 

“But often, simple is best – just highlighting the top notes of the rums as in the case of Zacapa Estilo Viejo:  Zacapa 23, Angostura bitters, Angostura Orange bitters, sugar syrup stirred in a rocks glass and garnished with an orange twist.  

“And cocktails that reflect the birthplace of the rum will always work – not just from an authenticity perspective but by making use of ingredients and flavours indigenous to the rum’s origin, which create perfect taste partnerships.

Shared view

This is a view shared by Pernod Ricard Havana Club global marketing director Nick Blacknell, who says that rum’s “party perception certainly suits Havana Club’s identity – it embodies the authentic Cuban culture so it’s fitting it keeps that persona”.

He continues: “Rum’s popularity is due to its sweet and accessible taste, which is highly mixable, especially with cola, and also because it is perceived as a cool and informal spirit. Havana Club’s success in these markets is due to its wide range of rums, from Havana Club 3 Year Old to Máximo, satisfying all types of consumers.”

And, like Appleton, the brand is on a mission to educate consumers, having developed marketing campaigns highlighting its authentic Cuban identity, such as the Nothing Compares to Havana Campaign, which includes TV, print, billboard, and cinema advertising, as well as online activity and PR support.  “It epitomises the essence of Havana by reflecting the true values of the city – humanity, spontaneity and creativity.” 

Blacknell says: “We have also implemented a brand education programme, which is aimed at bartenders and influential members of the on-trade and conducted by brand ambassadors in key markets around the world.

“We have a strong cultural global communications platform called Havana Cultura, dedicated to embracing the brand’s Cuban heritage and promoting Cuban creativity in all its forms. Havana Cultura is brought to life through a website as well as cultural projects and events around the world.”

Indeed, of all the spirits, rum is the one which appears most synonymous with its place of production.

Gonzonato elaborates: “If a country has a rum culture, that is where the people really embrace the local brand, then usually the brand is perceived to take on the personality of the people who drink it. In addition, in the case of Appleton, the brand is also an extension of the people who work at Appleton and who produce the product. Therefore you will find that when people think of Appleton they tend to think of the brand as being passionate, friendly, social while also standing for craftsmanship at the highest level.”

With the heritage and authenticity of a Scotch, rum’s easygoing, fun side makes it unique among spirits and accounts for its huge diversity.

It is learning and maturing – in more ways than one – but it’s never going to hang up its party shoes.

As Ian Burrell says: “The party atmosphere will always be there. The serious side is for connoisseurs who are fine spirit drinkers, not necessarily  serious about rum. That is where it has an opportunity to grow.”