23. GH MUMM

A move up the Most Admired brand list is partly a reflection of all the good work done on the GH Mumm wines over the past decade, most recently by head winemaker Didier Mariotti. Re-establishing the consistency and quality of the mainstream Cordon Rouge cuvée was a necessary first step he and his predecessor, Dominique Demarville, worked on together. Since taking charge he’s been able to refine both the straight vintage, expected to move to 2009 this year, and prestige label ‘R’ Lalou. But his new creation, Mumm de Verzenay Blanc de Noirs, didn’t appear to be a priority for owner Pernod Ricard, despite its obvious potential for those who tasted the first limited release.

That’s now changed and it’s been sensibly paired with Mumm Blanc de Blancs – a single Grand Cru Chardonnay – with both wines relaunched under the distinctive and striking RSRV label as premium vintage cuvées. Maison Mumm Blanc de Noirs RSRV is from the impressive 2008 vintage, while the new Mumm de Cramant vintage release will be 2012 – this wine has always come from Mumm’s best vineyards in the heart of the Cramant Grand Cru and has gone under various names over the years, the most meaningful of which was Crémant de Cramant. These two wines will only be sold directly to private customers given access to a special mail order site, but are definitely worth exploring.