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THE CONSEJO REGULADOR OF RIOJA (DOCa Rioja Control Board) has agreed to a single vineyard designation (‘Vinedos Singulares’) for special wines from specific vineyards in Spain’s most famous wine-producing region.

The existing system of designations – Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva – based on length of barrel ageing, will continue. Wines that qualify in these classifications can now be labelled ‘Crianza from a single vineyard’.

The consejo says: “It will be necessary to demonstrate technically the natural limits of the ‘single vineyard’, which will require at least 35 years of ownership and yields 20% or more below those allowed for the region.

“They will have to be well balanced, of limited vigour and will be required to be harvested manually. Production traceability will also be a requirement, with prior checks and double quality assessment (initial certification and certification prior to being put on the market). The latter will require an ‘excellent’ rating.”

It is believed the intention is to extend this to include village and other sub-zones in the future.

The move comes after much pressure from interested wine producers. In January last year more than 150 growers, producers and other interested parties signed a Terroir Manifesto asking for recognition of Spain’s terroir in its vineyard designations, similar to those of Burgundy.

José Luis Lapuente, director general of the Consejo, tells DI: “As per our 2005-2020 strategic plan, our vision is to become one of the regions of reference for quality wines in world markets.

“We have now entered a third phase for Rioja. After 20 years as Spain’s flagship quality wine region, building a strong reputation as a DOCa, with the strict qualitative and quantitative guidelines that entails, we are now focusing on addressing market demands.

“For example, we have just voted on permitting wines produced in single vineyards as well as allowing production of high quality sparkling wines, and new white wines. We have also developed a new brand strategy to reinforce our roots and tradition. In a few words, as a market-driven region we are delivering the right answers for stakeholder interests,” says Lapuente.

Rioja accounts for approximately 40% of market share in domestic quality wines, 60% if only aged red wines, and 80% when looking at the on-trade channels for these wines. The UK is Rioja’s primary export market, accounting for 34% of total exports (Rioja Exporters Group stats to March 2017). The latest Nielsen stats (MAT to December 31, 2016) show that Rioja now accounts for almost half of Spanish value in the UK at 49.5% (up 8.7%) and 38.6% of Spanish volume (up 10.4%).

DOMINANT POSITION

Lapuente says: “Generally speaking, our export performance has shown an increase of total value in 2016. Same in 2015. Once we have a dominant position in the Spanish market, we tend to gain value and market share abroad.”

Engaging younger, professional A-B consumers is a key part of the Consejo’s marketing strategy. Lapuente says: “Over the past few summers we’ve taken our Rioja Tapas Fantasticas bar on tour to various food festivals, where we’ve served a range of Rioja wines alongside authentic tapas dishes.”

Speaking specifically about the UK, he says: “This year we are entering into new and exciting territory by taking our Rioja bar to music festivals where we get to engage with a new crowd. This summer we will be at the Wilderness Festival in Oxfordshire and Citadel Festival in East London. These festivals give us an opportunity to engage with tens of thousands of consumers between the ages of 25 and 45, making Rioja relevant and accessible.”

James Wainscott, communications manager at Wine Intelligence, tells DI: “Rioja has carved out a good standing in the global wine market – it is a well-known region, with awareness levels among UK regular wine drinkers hitting around 67%.

“For comparison’s sake, we could say that Rioja is the Bordeaux of Spain. Both regions boast big production, a long list of well-known brands, wines at every price point – and quality level, and good consumer awareness,” says Wainscott

CVNE export area manager Carlos Delage says: “Demand for Rioja wines is increasing around the world, we’ve got markets such as the US, Switzerland or China growing at a very good pace with excellent average price, and these markets demand aged wine. That’s the future of Rioja. Customers are finding out that Rioja can also produce outstanding rosés and whites.”

Wainscott says: “The quality of Rioja’s white wines has improved immensely in recent years and they are beginning to garner more attention at home and abroad. While I cannot divulge our findings, I can say that several export markets are getting good traction. The Wines of Rioja report shows that 2016 exports of white Rioja are up 4.72%, and domestic an impressive 13.37%.

QUALITY WHITES

In a recent Decanter report on Rioja, Spanish wine specialist Sarah Jane Evans MW says: “Change is in the air in Rioja and not just among those who are questioning the regulatory body’s rules. You will meet an encouraging new generation of Rioja producers starting their own bodegas. In making my choices, I was asked to focus on Crianza Gran Reserva and non-Tempranillo red wines, but it is worth pointing out that Rioja also has some exceptional whites. Hopefully some of these star white wines will make their presence felt at the 2016.”

Tim Atkin MW in the same report says: “In Rioja, all but a handful of the DOCa’s finest wines are comparatively inexpensive. There are oceans of cheap supermarket Rioja – I saw Reservas on sale for £5.49 over Christmas – which suppresses the price of the good stuff, at least for now. You don’t need to spend much more to trade up from something that’s simple, fruity and oaky to something that is complex, balanced and age worthy.

“How much longer will this continue? Changes are afoot. Rioja is seriously debating allowing producers to use the names of individual villages and vineyards on their labels – ludicrously, such a thing is forbidden at the moment. If that happens, I think the best terroir-focused Riojas will start to attract the attention of wine collectors and investors. And we all know what happens then,” says Atkin.

SUMMARY

WI’s Wainscott says: “We think we’ll see the emergence of sub-regions within Rioja and an increasing number of quality-minded producers stepping away from the DOCa. While 95% of producers will benefit from being a part of the DOCa, a small percentage are being driven away by political reasons (such as the Basque pushing for their own region).

“Styles of Rioja vary massively and growers are embracing modern technology, planting a greater variety of grapes – even Verdejo is permitted now, rather controversially – using different types of wood, toast, and ageing processes. You’ll see more gravity-fed systems and concrete eggs. We also anticipate a big push for wine tourism.”

The consejo’s Lapuente says: “Ensuring balance is key to optimising our potential and Rioja looks to European guidelines to maintain this balance between supply and demand. In terms of wine styles, we are focusing on our blended wines, as well as terroir-driven wines and new whites. In the slightly longer term we will also have high quality sparkling wines available.

“We try to meet the demands of all type of consumers and generate new consumption habits, and also incorporating gastronomy into our strategy.

“In the UK, we expect the category to remain strong, as it has to date despite declining sales in the overall Spanish wine category. For us, premium Rioja is a big focus, but we see great potential for Rioja Rosado and Rioja Blanco as consumers explore the diversity in the region,” he concludes.

Delage says: “I believe the future is within the Reserva and Gran Reserva categories – our wines are made to be aged in barrels and in bottle.

“The great challenge is for all of us to work together and look in the same direction, focusing in quality, not quantity. Rioja is an added-value product and we all need to position it in the top wines in the world. “We all need to believe in it and position our wines in the place they deserve,” says Delage.