On trend

Angel Brown compiles the experts’ views on what is hot and what is not in the world of bartending today

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CURIOSITY KILLED the cat, but satisfaction brought it back’ – a fitting line for the industry’s most searching question: What are the future global cocktail trends? Getting a straight answer to this question is never easy, but the rewards for brands that track trends early and successfully are so high it’s always worth trying.

Elite bartenders are the trendsetters in spirits and cocktails so they are the best people to ask. Essentially, they are always looking to create the next big thing. These guys have a big task on their hands – they start the drip effect, which percolates through to the mainstream and often ends in the off-trade.

Before we hear from these trendsetters, let’s summarise their observations. The bartenders from around the world we spoke to think gin is still the frontrunner when it comes to cocktails, but mezcal, tequila and whisk(e)y are also popular. Fortified wines such as vermouth continue to gain momentum and, while lighter-abv cocktails are popular in pockets, they’re not the global standard.

A growing trend is local ingredients, with more bartenders shopping at markets, foraging and adapting cocktails to reflect domestic heritage, while sustainability remains a work in progress for now.

Lab equipment and technology such as sous-vides, sonic prep, Rotavapors and centrifuges are becoming commonplace in high-end bars in the quest for new flavours and more efficient prep.

One element that remains a staple for bartenders is the classic cocktail. The way in which the classics are produced might be changing – seasonal, local twists are now common – but these go-to recipes are the backbone of the bartender’s repertoire. That’s the general consensus, but let’s hand over to the experts. We spoke to: Matt Whiley, Scout, London; Stacey Swenson, Dante, New York; Vasilis Kyritsis, The Clumsies, Athens; Josh Harris, Trick Dog, San Francisco; Antonio Lai, The Envoy, Hong Kong; Tim Philips, Bulletin Place, Sydney; Jimmy Barrett, Zuma, Dubai.

WHAT ARE THE GROWTH SPIRITS CATEGORIES AND WHY?

VK: I believe gin now is one of the most growing categories worldwide. Also I’m focusing more on vodka, vermouth and sherries in different versions.

SS: Mezcal and tequila continue to be on the rise. I also see more guests interested in other types of Italian bitters/aperitvos. We have been using vermouth and other fortified wines as base spirits more often.

AL: Gin is still a largely growing category in Hong Kong, partly due to the colonial heritage and the many expats in the city. Surprisingly, we’ve seen vermouths as a category gaining strength in this market. The people are focusing on less alcohol and more flavour, with an inclination towards ‘healthier’ options as well.

TP: In Australia it’s probably gin for consumers (still). Bartenders are using a lot more vermouth and fortified wines in general as well as aperitifs reigning supreme. There is some phenomenal grappa making its way to us at the moment. Definitely also the rise of local barley spirit whisky is good to see.

JB: I love to use mezcal. There are some fantastic producers out there and I love that it’s a growing category. It has been a hit with our customers and it seems to be catching on across the city. In this region whisky-based cocktails are also in growth and Japanese whisky is especially desirable.

MW: I’m using a lot more wine and sake in drinks to lengthen the flavour, and they can also be used to add acidity. I think vodka is growing as more bartenders are using this to create bespoke ingredients. I also believe whisk(e)y is growing as a category, especially with the emergence of world whiskey.

ARE YOU SEEING A MOVE TOWARDS STRONGER OR LIGHTER DRINKS?

VK: I see more light cocktails with a low abv. A person can spend less money per cocktail, can drink more cocktails and, with the creativity of the bartenders now, can have something very tasty.

SS: There’s most certainly a swing towards lighter cocktails, which is perfect for us at Dante. We’ve always focused on more sessionable, apertivo-style cocktails.

JH: I’d say the lighter cocktail is trending right now in San Francisco but this is not unlike many places around the world that I’ve visited recently.

AL: It goes both ways. While there is more interest in lighter-style cocktails, there are still those who love a good old-fashioned (pun intended) drink such as a Negroni and, well, Old Fashioned.

JB: It’s hard to say because here in Dubai there is a mix of strong and light drinks across the city. We have seen a shift to stronger drinks. Consumers are not as afraid of stronger drinks as they used to be.

MW: Definitely a split. There is always a need for stronger short drinks but the low-abv category is taking off and is blurring the line between cocktails and wine.

HOW IMPORTANT ARE LOCAL INGREDIENTS AND SUSTAINABILITY?

VK: They have a basic role. One good thing in Greece is the freshness you can find with fruits and vegetables, especially during their season. Sustainability is becoming more and more useful to my bar. It’s a good way of thinking generally, not only for my bar but for the whole world.

SS: Very important. I personally go to the farmers’ market at least once a week to see what’s available. We have been making strides. Putting systems into place in such a small space has been a challenge, but sustainability is a goal that we continue to work towards every day.

JH: The use of local ingredients is a luxury that has become commonplace in San Francisco. Our area has such an abundance of beautiful fruits, vegetables and herbs. Sustainability is a factor but not our guiding principal. In San Francisco, this is something that many people in and out of bars embrace and apply to different degrees.

AL: Very important – as such, we have actually revised two of our signature cocktails at Quinary to include more local (by cultivation and heritage) ingredients. Not only do the values go in line with traditional Chinese culinary practices of using every part of your ingredient (think pork intestines, ears and trotters), cost percentages also affect the profitability of a business in Hong Kong where rent is sky high.

TP: For me, it’s everything. This is not a trend. This is how it should be forever. Australia’s biodiversity means there’s always something in season. We try to be sustainable to achieve a better GP margin. If you’re buying an orange for 50 cents, it makes sense to want to use the whole product – skin, pith and flesh.

JB: Flavours and ingredients indigenous to where I am working are important to me. I have created a live solera system here in Dubai. The UAE government is seriously committed to creating a green society and I am always looking for new, innovative ways to support sustainability here.

MW: Massively. Our bar focuses solely on British produce. Another focus is always finding ways to use ALL ingredients. They have to be exhausted before they go in the bin.

DO YOU USE ANY NEW TECHNOLOGY OR EQUIPMENT?

VK: Yes for sure. We have a lab in The Clumsies that allows us to work in a very creative way.

SS: We use a high-speed Breville juicer to juice oranges, grapefruit, apples, and pineapples to order.

AL: One of the key elements with Quinary is the multisensory approach, which we build based on innovative tools and equipment such as the Rotavapor, centrifuge, sous-vide and dehydrator.

JB: I use all kinds of technology and I am continually experimenting with new equipment, however I only use things such as the sous-vide, sonic prep and rotary evaporator if it helps create the drink’s concept.

MW: We have a lab in the basement to create all our own flavours and we have different ways of extracting flavour. We focus more on produce than spirit.

DO YOU FEEL CLASSIC COCKTAILS ARE GROWING OR DWINDLING?

VK: Classic cocktails will be always classic cocktails. It’s like the bible of our industry. It’s a big legacy for every bartender and it’s a good way to try to create the future classics for the next generations.

SS: Classics such as the Aperol Spritz, Negroni and Old Fashioned continue to grow in popularity and I don’t see signs of them dwindling any time soon.

JH: In San Francisco, I have always felt original cocktails were favoured more highly than classic ones, as opposed to other cities in the US where it is the opposite. I believe that classics are right around where they always have been in the time of my career, no more and no less.

AL: Classic cocktails have found solid ground in the hearts of the people here, and they are definitely here to stay.

TP: That’s a big debate. They’re not growing or dwindling comparatively to modern cocktails. However, the way they’re being made for the customer is changing. More bars are pre-batching or bottling classic cocktails.

JB: More often I see many classics on menus across the city and at Zuma we have noticed that our classics are extremely popular, especially straighter drinks such as the Old Fashioned.

MW: I actually think they are growing, not within my bars but I think classic cocktails and the recipes should be challenged. Diversity in the industry is amazing and shows how much our industry is growing.

ARE THERE ANY OTHER TRENDS YOU ARE OBSERVING RIGHT NOW?

VK: The traditional trend of fermentation and preservation is coming through now. I also believe, along with the trend of low-abv cocktails, the carbonation techniques will become a new big trend.

SS: Negronis and more bitter flavours. Rosé and flavoured ciders (such as Austin Pineapple Cider). People also love the idea of cocktails on tap and bottled cocktails.

AL: The obsession of putting cocktails in all sorts of glassware, from the whimsical and charming to the ones that are downright bizarre.

TP: Bartenders are too serious. If I see one more picture of a guy or girl behind the bar with their arms crossed staring into the camera looking miserable, I’m going to ice-pick myself in the leg. Cheer up. Let’s have fun.

JB: Barrel ageing is extremely popular across Dubai right now. There are a lot of bars playing with wood, seasoning and ageing.

MW: I think the biggest trend is the guest shift/travelling bartender – this is bringing the global cocktail community closer together. As we move into the future more bartenders will share ideas, which I will champion. I will be releasing a code to my online cocktail database later this year that will have all of my drinks from all the bars I have worked with in the past.