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WHAT’S WINCHESTER FAMOUS FOR? Once the Anglo-Saxon capital of Wessex and England, today the city is best known for the great hall of its formidable castle and, of course, it gives its name to a repeating rifle. But there is another Winchester – scotch whisky’s Alan. This is the man who oversees Chivas Brothers’ raft of distilleries – The Glenlivet in Speyside, Strathisla, Glen Keith, Glen Grant and Longmore. These are key distilleries of malts that go into the blends of global scotch whiskies such as Chivas Regal and Ballantine’s.

The man is stepping down but is apparently retaining the title of master distiller at The Glenlivet.

Alan Winchester has one of those huge smiles, along with a large presence and a soft Scottish lilt. Beguiling. He is a man who exudes patience – he’s used to things taking time, taking their course. So he seems perfect for looking after Pernod Ricard’s significant scotch whisky portfolio.

Distilling is a basic chemical process but it has to take its course with heads, tails and, of course, the heart. Not a job for the faint-hearted or control freak. And then there’s the ageing. Put the clear liquid in a barrel and wait for at least three years, often longer – much longer.

Winchester’s family were mainly farmers working close to Glenfarclas. So how did it all start? His father was a policeman but Winchester worked at the Glenfarclas distillery in his school holidays. The plan was to go into the navy but a job came up in the warehouse and that was it. He was in among the barrels, starting at the end of the process.

Around 1979, he went to work for Seagram at The Glenlivet, which also produced Glen Grant, the scotch Italians love. He did a bit of everything, probably smiling, if not all, but most of the time – stenciling barrels, labouring in the cooperage. He probably polished the spirits safe. He ruefully admits to having a ‘cooper dog’ – the cylindrical cooper tube on a chain which distillery men kept down their trousers for partaking of the spirit when the manager and excise men weren’t looking. So much for the angel’s share…

In 1991 Winchester went back to Glenfarclas as assistant distillery manager. “It was a bit like coming home,” he says. “I thought that was me settled. But then a director left for Pernod Ricard and he asked if I fancied coming along.

“I spoke to the wife, weighed up the pros and cons and went to work for Aberlour.” At the then Campbell Distillers, he became distillery manager. This year marks 25 years with Pernod Ricard. Will he get a gold watch or gold (copper) dog? Watch this space.

In the early noughties, the scotch whisky industry underwent massive changes. Earlier, Bell’s, which was the number one blended scotch whisky, was bought by the company that became Diageo. Then the Canadian Bronfman family decided to sell up and Seagram was carved up by Diageo and Pernod, at the time a small, very French company, which called its modest scotch division Campbell Distillers. Then Allied-Domecq came up for sale and Pernod and Beam provided the executioners and beneficiaries.

While all this was going on, the affable Winchester kept on distilling and ageing.

Asked what product, development or initiative he is most proud of, he says: “I have been involved in whisky for more than 40 years, and I’m proud of all the distilleries and the whiskies I’ve worked with. Being made master distiller in 2009 was a great honour though. The Glenlivet was most notably one of the first to start the style of the modern whisky industry. Most recently, I was immensely proud to have been involved in The Glenlivet Captain’s Reserve. The idea of Captain’s Reserve was formulated by listening to customers and them wanting something different. So it introduces the richness of one style – of the cognac – to the fruity-floral style of The Glenlivet. It’s been a fascinating example of how The Glenlivet can be adapted by the use of a cask. It’s obviously great to see work like that coming through.”

You have to ask the obvious question: What is your favourite drink? And you get the obvious answer: “A dram of The Glenlivet 18 Year Old with a spot of water.” But Winchester goes on to list:

“Aberlour A’bunadh. Not only is Aberlour the town where I grew up, it is also the first distillery I worked at when I joined Pernod Ricard 25 years ago. Handmade from start to finish, Aberlour A’bunadh is one of those whiskies that leaves a real lasting impression.

“Redbreast 12 Year Old. I’m quite the fan of single pot still Irish whiskeys like this one, with a great body and a nice, long finish.

“Glenfarclas 1958 is another favourite. A lovely expression with heavy aromas of cotton candy and caramel, encased in a gorgeous bottle. The Glenfarclas distillery also holds a special place in my heart, as it’s where I started my career as a tour guide back in 1975. It’s also right next door to the farm which was owned by my great-grandfather and is still in the family today.”

What does he do to relax: “I’m very keen on hill walking. I’ve climbed all of the Munros (the most significant mountains in Scotland at more than 3,000ft/914.4m), according to original compiler Sir Hugh Munro) and the outlier tops. I love going out into the wide, open spaces. I love exploring the area around me because you can lose yourself in the mountains behind the distillery.”

If he is stepping down, what is he going to do? “Lots to see and do. I would like to visit and see cognac being distilled.”

So what would be the Winchester epitaph? “Someone who listened to a teacher’s (not the brand) advice: ‘When you get a job, get one you enjoy doing.’”

There’s no rifling with Winchester.