Penfolds’ Peter Gago on the importance of creative freedom
Penfolds’ chief winemaker Peter Gago tells Shay Waterworth how having the ability to experiment has allowed the brand to produce wines that ‘push the limits of possibility’.
Do you agree that Australia is producing some of the most experimental wines in the world right now?
Unencumbered by rigid tradition, Australian winemakers are free to continue to explore new varieties, techniques and philosophies with bold intent.
This creative freedom has given rise to some truly original expressions – from unconventional fermentations, alternative modes of maturation, brave blends that transcend region and hemisphere. It’s a space where risk is embraced and innovation continues to thrive.
At Penfolds, we are proud to be part of this movement. Our ongoing quality commitment to experimentation – as recently witnessed in wines like Grange X La Chapelle – reflects not only the dynamism of Penfolds’ house style, but the pioneering spirit of Australian wine as a whole.
During your creative process are you looking to produce a wine which matches consumer trends, or a wine which provides something new and innovative?
At Penfolds, our creative process is rarely, if ever, driven by trends, but rather an enduring commitment to pursuing experimentation. While we naturally remain attuned to evolving tastes, our focus is on crafting new wine styles that surprise and challenge.
For more than 180 years, we’ve ventured beyond tradition and terroir, upholding a quiet yet steadfast promise, passed down via generations of Penfolds winemakers, to push boundaries.
As an extension of the eight-decade-long Penfolds Special Bin programme, trials have explored new regions, varieties, techniques, styles and collaborations.
While each must meet rigorous quality standards, winemaking freedom to confidently experiment remains paramount. And, at the same time, respecting what has happened before, and maintaining an acute awareness of what works and what doesn’t.
We’d like to think that we can continue to push the limits of possibility, not to follow trends, but to inspire and delight wine lovers with the dynamic, world-class wines that define Penfolds.
Looking at Grange La Chapelle, what was the biggest challenge you faced when making the wine?
The biggest challenge was navigating a high-risk undertaking in uniting two expressions of the Syrah/Shiraz grape separated by time, culture, terroir, hemisphere and winemaking philosophy. This was no simple task, yet it revealed the true grandeur and versatility of the variety.
Terroir played a vital role in providing the diverse flavour and structural building blocks that make the blend unique. No component from a less-desirable terroir was considered for either the original 2021 Grange or 2021 La Chapelle; ensuring only the highest quality material contributed to the final 50:50 assemblage.
Equally important was the time the finished blend spent maturing in barrel in Australia prior to bottling, allowing it to settle and harmonise. Ditto, bottle maturation.
Would you agree that climate is the biggest challenge to Australian wine as a category?
Most now agree climate change is one of the most pressing challenges confronting Australian wine today. As conditions become increasingly unpredictable – widely variable temperatures, shifting rainfall patterns and extreme weather events – the need for adaptability has never been greater.
Yet with this challenge comes opportunity. At Penfolds, climate change mandates a rethink of every aspect of our winemaking, from initial variety selection and viticultural practices to later blending philosophies. Innovation has been embraced at all levels, including water conservation, community engagement projects plus a search for new terroirs.
A global approach, now spanning the US, France and China, allows for winemaking future-proofing without sacrificing identity or quality.
This mindset is reflected across the entire Australian wine landscape. Australia is responding with resilience, ingenuity and a deep respect for the land – qualities that will continue to shape the evolution and enhancement of our wines in the decades ahead.