Argentinian Wine

Malbec is the undisputed jewel in the country’s wine crown. But is it under too much pressure? Christian Davis checks out the other possible contenders

Malbec is still king in Argentina, exclaims Anne Forrest, wine buyer for Laithwaites, part of Direct Wines, which sells directly to consumers in a myriad countries including the US, UK, Australia, Germany and Switzerland.

But there is a concern that, marvellous as Malbec undoubtedly is, the South American powerhouse might rest too heavily on it.

Tim Atkin MW, who is widely recognised as one of Argentina’s most authoritative observers, recently questioned in his column in UK off-trade publication Office Licence News whether Argentina is too reliant on Malbec.

Atkin, who has visited the country many times since first going there in 1993, cited the “partial commoditisation of New Zealand’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc”, as a place Argentinian winemakers and producers do not want to go.

While no one doubts the quality and pre-eminence of Argentinian Malbec – except possibly some French producers in Cahors which, hitherto, was the variety’s historical home (there the grape is called Côt or Auxerrois) – there is the worry of having all your eggs in the one basket or, in this case, all your (single variety) grapes in the one harvest basket.

Most Argentinian producers are only too aware of the danger. In fact, the demand for Malbec, particularly from the US, is affecting supply and, as a result, prices are rising. Not necessarily a bad thing, some might suggest.

Ramiro Barrios, regional export manager for the Trapiche brand, tells Drinks International: “Since Argentina turned from volume to quality and made its way on the export markets by the end of the 1990s, global consumers started to learn about Malbec.

“Today, this variety is a boom in some markets, such as the US and Brazil. The UK is experiencing a growing interest and recognises and identifies Argentina as the origin for the best Malbecs,” he says.

“On the down side, the big demand has been pushing grape prices up and Argentina is no longer able to offer Malbec on the entry-level price ranges,” says Barrios.

Andrew Maidment, who represents generic body Wines of Argentina, says: “The US has been a big boom market for the past 10 years – 60% of exports are Malbec. In the UK it is 35% and in the Netherlands it is 25%. The average (globally) is about 35%.

“The US has a love affair with Malbec – the flavour profile and demographics with eating out. They have grown up with big juicy US wines and they love steakhouses so the US matches well with Argentinian tastes. Also, there is the economic factor. The exchange rate has been favourable to the US so Argentina is a great value choice,” says Maidment.

Capturing attention

But – there is always a but. Edgardo del Popolo is director of viticulture and winemaking at Doña Paula, which is part of the Santa Rita Estates group. He says: “Argentina’s best variety by far is Malbec so to make other wines that can capture the consumer’s attention, you have to make them at least as good.

“I think both Torrontes and Bonarda have the Argentinian DNA and they represent their origin very well, as Malbec does. 

“The best Argentinian wines are not being produced with single varieties alone. They also come from special terriors and they are red and white blends,”says Del Popolo.

Most agree about Malbec but not everyone is in accord as to the alternatives.

Barrios says: “We see a lot of potential for Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc as well as Bonarda and Torrontes.”

Bodegas Salentein chief winemaker José Galante adds: “I think Argentina has an opportunity to show its potential with varieties such as Cabernet and Chardonnay. Also with its Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon blends.”

He continues: “In my 30 years experience with Chardonnay in Mendoza, the high altitude vineyards in the cool region of Uco valley demonstrate we can produce world-class Chardonnay with a real Argentinian identity, such as our Salentein Reserve Chardonnay or our new Salentein Single Vineyard Chardonnay that came from the highest vineyard in Mendoza. At 1,605m above sea level our San Pablo estate has a special microclimate of cool weather and 500mm of rain a year (double the amount in the rest of Mendoza) and much higher relative humidity – ideal to obtain a great natural acidity and citric and mineral character in our Chardonnay.”

Galante adds: “Producers in Mendoza have been working hard for the past couple of years to produce an outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon that can position Argentina as a distinctive choice in the first-class Cabernet world. At Salentein we are focused on working hard in the vineyard using the benefits of our climate at 1,050m to obtain a ‘great expression’ of Cabernet Sauvignon from this cool, high-altitude region,” he says.

Torrontes and Bonarda

“I think Torrontes and also Bonarda can provide great options for everyday consumption and excellent value for money. Torrontes offers a totally different option in the world of white wines. But Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and blends of Malbec with Cabernet are the best options for Argentina to compete in the world wine markets, always led by its flagship Malbec that I’m sure that we can continue growing in the knowledge of this great variety,” concludes Galante.

Back to Del Popolo with his ‘BTM’ (better than Malbec) and the micro-regional varietal approach. “The best examples of that are Cabernet Franc blended with Malbec, both from Gualtallary in the Uco valley, or Petit Verdot with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec from Agrelo in Luján or Malbec and Syrah from Altamira in Uco.

“They are special red blends that, in many cases, are better than their components alone,”says Del Popolo. “In the very high Uco, again Gualtallary, white blends made with Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling embrace clearly the meaning of minerality as exponents of rocky calcareous soils interacting with moderate cool climate.”

He also sees potential for Chardonnay and Viognier in warmer locations, possibly on soils with more clay.

On a more cautionary note, James Forbes, buying and marketing director at UK agent Stevens Garnier, says the reputation of the famous Mendoza clone, Argentinian Chardonnay, has perhaps so far failed to excite the UK market in particular. The former head of Wines of Argentina in the UK says Finca Flichman, which he now represents, has a new premium Chardonnay under the Paisaje and Reserve labels which will, he says, make an impactful debut in the UK. He adds: “I hope the trade will take the opportunity to try them and see what Argentina can really do with Chardonnay.”

Forbes says Finca Flichman has a “unique location in Barrancas at 700m above sea level”. The vineyards are said to be planted on the old Mendoza river-bed here and in Tupungato, at 1,100m, where the climatic conditions lend additional acidity and complexity to the wines.

Pretenders to the throne

But back to a more dispassionate view from Anne Forrest, the Laithwaites buyer. Argentina accounts for 5% of the company’s sales, outperforming the UK’s average. She says: “The Cabernet Sauvignons and a few Cabernet Francs I tasted are real pretenders to the throne and offer great value for money.

“Bonarda can be delicious and works wonderfully in blends with Malbec. Many of the best wines I tasted were moving away from over-reliance on new oak and where barrels were used it was more of their softening effect rather than imparting flavour from amazing ripe fruit which really shone through,” she says.

“Our customers also love Torrontes. The aromatic zing is really appealing to Sauvignon Blanc lovers and it is wonderful with spicy food. 

“We are listing a new 100% Torrontes called Ascención, which is from Bodegas Amalaya and comes from vineyards between 1,700m 2,500m in Salta,” says Forrest.

She sees Argentina in a “phase of exploration and experimentation”. Other than possibly Mendoza, which accounts for more than 60% of Argentina’s wine production, other regions are virtually unknown to mainstream wine drinkers.

“I tasted some wonderful new projects from small areas of the Uco valley, such as Altamira and Vista Flores where the limestone soil brings wonderful texture to the final wines.

“My view is that the whole of this research and focus on small areas is absolutely vital to drive quality and interest up. Wineries must not lose sight of the fact that they already have a fantastic brand in Malbec with a high quality and value perception around the world.”

Apart from the perennial problem of fluctuating exchange rates, the only other major problem Argentina faces is inflation which, according to both Maidment and Forrest, is running at between 20 and 25%. That drives up the cost of dry goods, deters investment and pushes up prices. But, at the moment the love affair with Malbec, particularly in the US, continues apace.