Bitters

Bitters are making a huge comeback worldwide as innovative brands and classic cocktails push them into the limelight. Patience Gould reviews the category

Machine, which all but freezes the ‘herbal liqueur’, making it instantly palatable. This, together with its teams of Jägerettes who are on hand at key ‘A-list events’ and sponsored musical tours around the country throughout the year has made the brand a firm favourite with the über trendy.

The ground-breaking Tap Machine was first introduced in 1993 and more than 50,000 are now in place in bars, restaurants and many homes throughout the US. The second-generation Jägermeister Tap Machine was introduced some three years ago and this year the company unveiled the six-bottle cooler, which is ideal for those on tour and party events.

This type of innovative activity has spurred Jägermeister’s sales to almost 3 million cases in the US and made it the number one imported ‘cordial’ Stateside – and clearly the company is after more. 

In May this year Jägermeister announced its TV advertising debut and first 360° campaign. Under the Stronger Bond banner the campaign is unashamedly targeting the 21 to 29-year-old male demographic: “It’s a strong drink for strong men with strong bonds”.   

Seven men at the top of their chosen professions who personified the “untamed edge of Jägermeister” were picked. The ad showed the induction of five-time world champion bullfighter Rob Smets into the legendary circle, including an All-Pro fearless wide receiver, rock icon, world champion boxing trainer, NASCAR pit crew chief, famed street and tattoo artist and big wave surfer. 

In addition to this above-the-line initiative, on the digital marketing front a new website has been developed which not only includes relevant brand information but also goes behind the scenes showcasing documentary footage on each of the seven men in the Stronger Bond ad.

Jägermeister is now marketed in more than 90 countries and its annual tally is nudging the 7 million case mark, making it the number one herbal liqueur brand. 

Increasing exports

Exports continue to increase and account for just under 80% of sales compared to just under 60% in 2002. Outside the US the brand’s other leading markets include the UK, Italy, Hungary and Canada. Along with Russia, Brazil, South Korea and Spain, the UK is also one of its best developing strongholds.  

There Jägermeister is handled by Cellar Trends and continues to show “strong growth”, having something of a cult following. This success the company attributes in part to the Jägerbomb – a mix of Jägermeister and an energy drink, usually Red Bull – but in the main to Jägermeister’s perfect serve as an ice-cold shot, thanks to the Tap Machine, and this continues to represent the biggest growth opportunity.

 “Our research has shown that consumers who have tried Jägermeister served ice cold are more likely to repeat purchase,” says Cellar Trends’ Nicole Goodwin, UK group marketing manager for Jägermeister. 

“Through more effectively communicating ice-cold consumption to consumers and providing reasons to drink it neat, this will help to move people away from the ‘bomb’ consumption and generate a longer-term relationship with the brand as a result.”

In short, the Jägermeister Tap Machine is one of the key sales drivers and feedback from on-trade accounts investing in it underline the positive impact it can have on the business. 

According to Paul Bossick, bar manager of the Black Sheep and Bad Apple bars in south London: “When we installed the Jägermeister Tap Machine, our sales of the spirit increased massively, from one or two bottles sold a week to 30-40. 

“It has real stand-out at the bar and our bar staff love to use it as it’s fun and provides the perfect Jägermeister serve – ice cold. The machine allows bar staff to serve customers quickly, which is ideal during busy periods, and therefore maximises sale opportunities.”

It’s hardly surprising then that, with this hugely positive uptake, Jägermeister’s UK sales are forging ahead. Indeed the bitters brand is “drastically outperforming the overall spirits market” with an MAT change of 14.3% volume and 18.8% value in the on trade, compared to a general category fall of -1.2% in volume and an increase of 7.2% value (source: CGA Strategy, on trade research specialist). 

Traditional approach

While Jägermeister is at the cutting edge in terms of marketing and the herbal bitters category, the number two brand, Fernet Branca from Italy, is positioned on a much more traditional footing. 

In 2011 the brand turned in a 20%-plus volume increase and notched up annual sales of 4.63 million cases, and its growth has been even more significant since 2007 when sales were 3.12 million cases.

It’s a result that Branca attributes to some “excellent performances”, notably in the US, Scandinavia and in Argentina where its sister company, Fratelli Branca Distilerias, has scored a great success pushing Fernet with cola, known as Fernandito or simply Branca y Cola, is proving very successful. 

As a result the company is now focusing on Branca & Cola in Italy, where the spirits market has been hit by the “deep economic” crisis. Nevertheless, the brand is one of the market leaders and Italy “remains one of its most important” stamping grounds.

Outside its home turf, the main export markets are Germany, the US – where it is particularly appreciated with ginger ale and also used as a key ingredient on the premium cocktail-making circuit – and Scandinavia. But in terms of development Fernet Branca is experiencing positive growth in countries including Australia and Canada. This is particularly encouraging as these markets have only come on stream in recent years.  

Clearly the world’s two leading bitter liqueurs are well positioned and it’s interesting to note that this is one of the few spirits categories which has not seen the cocktail as the lifeline, but that notwithstanding, bitters do have an important role to play in the making of cocktails.  

Indeed, with the growing interest in classic cocktails the traditional cocktail bitters are undergoing something of a revival. This trend towards classic ingredients combined with modern techniques and palates has led to the introduction of many new flavours of bitters from producers and bartenders, including Gary Regan, Dale DeGroff and Salvatore Calabrese. 

At the same time, bitters that have been lost down the ages for whatever reason have been recreated, and the one-time classic Boker’s is one of these. Long out of production it was launched in 1828 in New York but, although named in many cocktail books of the era, it did not make it into the 20th century. So, after a lot of judicious guesswork, the bitters are once again available under the Dr Adam Elmegirab label. Other rated producers include The Bitter Truth from Germany, and Brooklyn Hemispherical Bitters – both companies have developed wide ranges of bitters 

“Cocktail bitters are of the utmost importance within both cocktail history and creation,” says The Maestro, aka Salvatore Calabrese – who now presides over the Playboy Club, London. “Without the addition of bitters within cocktails we would not have such classic pleasures as the Old Fashioned, the Sazerac, or the Classic Champagne Cocktail, as well as a host of other go to classic cocktails within a bartender’s arsenal.” 

This fact is underlined by mentions in the pages of many old cocktail guides and manuals. “If we flick through the pages of Jerry Thomas’ renowned Bartenders Guide it becomes clear the importance of bitters and the role in which they had in mixed drinks during the infancy of the cocktail. An overwhelming percentage of the recipes within this guide alone makes reference to a variety of cocktail bitters,” says Calabrese. 

World record

Calabrese has recently broken the Guinness World Record for the most expensive cocktail ever made (see box). Salvatore’s Legacy, a snip at £5,500, has vintage Angostura bitters as one of its critical ingredients.  “Without cocktail bitters I would not have been able to create one of my greatest achievements and be written up in the Guinness World Records book,” says Calabrese. “My recent creation Salvatore’s Legacy broke the record for the world’s oldest and most expensive cocktail. This drink included Angostura bitters from around 1900 so cocktail bitters for me will always have a great importance.” 

Salvatore’s Legacy easily surpasses the previous most expensive cocktail. This was priced at £3,766 and was produced at Burj Al Arab Hotel’s Skyview Bar, in Dubai. The cocktail is made with the Macallan 55 Year Old, homemade passion fruit sugar, and, wait for it, “exclusively produced” dried fruit bitters.  It is served over ice cubes made of water from the Macallan distillery in Scotland, with an oak stirrer made from a Macallan Cask. 

I should add the cocktail is presented in a Baccarat 18-carat gold glass, which the buyer gets to take home.