In the latest of our series, Charles Joly, beverage director at The Aviary, gives the lowdown on the Chicago scene.

Tell us a little about the history of the Chicago bar scene and how it fits with wider US bar culture. 

Chicago has a long and important place in cocktail history. Everyone associates us with the Prohibition era, because of Capone and all the bootlegging. True, an enormous amount of illicit spirits were coming through at that time, but it wasn't a great time to be drinking. Outside of women beginning to socialise in the same speakeasies as men not much else good came from it. 

Chicago has always been a great international city. As a major hub in the US, epicentre for architecture, music and the arts in general and a true melting pot of cultures, it is a world-class location.

We have a tightly knit community when it comes to food and beverages. The cocktail bars are stylistically diverse and reflect our unique blend of ideas and execution. There is a high level of education available as well, with an active USBG, advanced courses taking bartenders around the world to study and a great interest from professionals and enthusiasts.

It's difficult to say there is one Chicago style. It tends to be a fusion of a strong knowledge of classics, seasonal approach and creative executions. You have everything from speakeasy-type bars, excellent tiki, progressive/modern and everything in between.

New York and San Francisco seem to grab the drinks headlines. Is Chicago every bit as good?

That's a loaded question. True, media is often more focused on the coasts. The quality of beverages globally is at the highest level in history. In any market, the majority of venues are still pretty basic. 

We have a lot of work to do to continue to educate consumers and raise expectations. People who work in bars or restaurants that specialise in seasonal menus, craft cocktails etc often forget we are still the minority. In any city in the world, there may be a dozen great cocktail bars, but 1,000 other taverns that haven’t updated in decades.

It is not a competition between which city has better bars. You can go to smaller markets such as Kansas City, Madison, Atlanta, Oakland etc and find amazing venues. 

We do have a tremendous amount of culinary tourism in Chicago. I regularly have guests who fly in simply to eat and drink. I have a great love for New York City and San Francisco, but I'm a born and raised Chicagoan. Where ever I am, my heart will always be here. 

What new bars should we know about and what are the old favourites?

The list is probably too long for this article. Chicago has a bit of everything – old taverns perfect for a beer, jazz bars, rock clubs and speciality cocktail bars… take your pick. There’s a time and a place for everything. If you visit, I wouldn't just take you to cocktail bars. To truly experience a city, you need to get into the neighbourhoods and see what it has to offer on all ends. 

A great bar tour would be: Aviary and the Office for cocktails, Big Star for tacos and tequila, the Violet Hour for a speakeasy stop, Scofflaw for gin and great staff, Billy Sunday for vintage Fernet, Barrelhouse Flat for more cocktails, Delilah's for incredible whiskey and rock, Three Dots and a Dash for tiki and Sable for a nightcap. Then we would go to the Green Mill for jazz or swing music. There are so many more great spots. Weegee’s, Maria’s Packaged Goods, The Punch House, The Drawing Room, Berskshire Room, Celeste, Drum Bar, Analogue, Longman & Eagle...you need to stay a few days.

Are there any new ingredients – perhaps local – techniques or approaches that you or other bartenders are using right now?

Chicago is in the Midwest in a strong growing region. We have amazing farms in an hour or two outside the city, so you see a great utilisation of this resource. We work hand in hand with the small farmers. If we want a specific herb or fruit many of them will grow them specifically for us. 

The line between kitchen and bar is becoming continually blurred as well. It serves any bartender well to spend as much time in the kitchen as possible. The possibility for ingredients becomes limitless. 

Who are the famous bartenders of Chicago and what are they famous for?

Calling out just a few people is difficult, as so many play important roles. My mentor is Bridget Albert. She is one of the key people who have helped to fuel growth in the community. She started the Academy of Spirits & Fine Service offering an in-depth educational opportunity to anyone interested. She continued this by forming an advanced academy taking groups of bartenders around the world to study spirits at the source. Her passion, sincerity, humility and commitment have sparked so many careers and helped to drive Chicago's beverage community.

What are your hopes for Chicago's bar scene – what needs to change or happen for it to become better recognised? 

This scene has grown sustainably and new generations of bartenders are coming into their own. Speaking beyond Chicago, we as a global community need continue to educate, experiment and share our passion for the industry with our guests. 

That said, a special note needs to be made to ensure we understand why we open our doors every day – that is for the guests. We are experiencing the first generations of bartenders who have only worked in speciality cocktail bars. We need to remind them that most of the public may have not ever experienced what we do. It is our job to welcome them in, raise expectations and create the best experience possible. This has nothing to do with a cocktail, it has to do with hospitality. Once that is established we enhance that experience with perfectly made cocktails. This will insure sustainability for our community and growth. 

And for Chicago to become more recognised? You have to visit. Amazing music, 25 miles of beaches, renowned museums, gorgeous parks and architecture, incredible food, drink and people. I recommend it in the spring, summer and fall, for obvious reasons. Salud!