Most Admired Champagne Brands 2017: 16-30

25. NICOLAS FEUILLATTE

It’s good to see that our extensive international voting panel has recognised the forward strides Nicolas Feuillatte has made in the quality and consistency of its wines, across what is a considerable range of cuvées.

As one of the largest producers in Champagne, with the third biggest brand in terms of shipments after Moët and Clicquot, Nicolas Feuillatte exercises considerable muscle. One of its main strengths is drawing on the fruit from its 5,000 grower members, who are spread right across the appellation. This gives the winemaking team lots of options to draw on in making more than 20 different cuvées, ranging from the five non-vintage offerings, through Grand Cru single varietal and oak aged vintages, up to the impressive prestige cuvée Palmes d’Or.

The straight vintage releases offer terrific value. The new 2008 Blanc de Blancs is, mirroring the vintage, made in a crisper, more lifted style than the quite luscious ’06 it follows. The ’08 vintage works arguably better in the Brut Millésimé style, where two-thirds black fruit give more creaminess in the mid-palate. The 2006 Palmes d’Or is lovely now, with a velvety palate and real substance, but will develop more complexity with time. Magnums of ’99 currently available seem incredibly youthful, showing this is a wine that demands to be taken seriously.