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THE LOVE STORY between Italy and amaretto started back in the 1500s during the Italian renaissance. Legend has it that Leonardo da Vinci’s art student Bernardino Luini was gifted a drink made from apricot kernels soaked in brandy by a young, widowed innkeeper, after she became his model and rumoured lover.

Such a long way from its romantic history, today amaretto is more likely to remind consumers of their parents’ drinks cabinet – the sweet-almondey liquid that sits at the back of the shelf only to be opened occasionally for an after-dinner tipple. Despite this view, could its historic value appeal to modern consumers who increasingly crave classic brands and authenticity? Domenico Toni, global sales director at Illva Saronno, which owns Disaranno, isn’t sure that’s enough anymore: “Heritage and a long history in the industry are no longer enough to make consumers loyal to a brand. We tell our story to explain Disaronno’s success and to reinforce the fact that we are the original amaretto. But we are keen to offer to discerning consumers a more deep and intense drinking experience through bartenders.”

So, it seems bartenders could be the key to changing the fortunes of the category and set trends that will trickle down to the consumer. The challenge for amaretto is one that the wider liqueurs category also experiences, it’s surrounded by confusion. Amaretto is a sweet drink but the word in Italian means ‘a little bitter’, which lends itself to the use of the bitter almond flavour – albeit a mild bitterness. The base is made from either apricot kernels or almonds or both. Apricot kernels contain poisonous compounds but alcohol extracts the benzaldehyde (bitter almond flavour) so the toxic hydrogen cyanide is not present in the liqueur. The end product is then sweetened sometimes using sweet almonds.

Dan Bolton, managing director at Hi-Spirits, believes that the confusion facing amaretto is nothing new. “This is something other speciality liqueurs and spirits also experience. Amaretto is a niche product, so tends to get crowded out on the back bar or retail shelf by bigger-selling categories. Consumers aren’t necessarily familiar with the way it should be served so need support to make it their choice.”

The Amaretto Sour could be the key to success of the category, popularising the use of amaretto in cocktails. Mark de Witte, chief executive at De Kuyper Royal Distillers, believes there is a market for amaretto as consumption increases both at home and in bars.

“We believe that, with our Home of the Cocktail strategy, we are ready to win in the marketplace by offering relevant products and solutions to consumers and bartenders alike. Even though our amaretto is great to be consumed neat or on ice, it also works very well in an Amaretto Sour cocktail. Focusing on this hero cocktail will help to stay relevant and leverage on the trend of cocktails.”

CLASSIC COCKTAILS

Earlier this year in Drinks International’s annual Brands Report World’s Bestselling Classics list, the Amaretto Sour came 22nd out of 50 classic cocktails. That means 18% of bartenders polled said it is in their top 10 – quite a feat for a ’70s throwback.

The trusty bartending community on Facebook didn’t let us down either. After a post by deputy editor Hamish Smith, global bartenders were quick to comment on how the Amaretto Sour still sells, even if it remains quietly in the background. It seems this classic is still very much a staple at bars.

Alex Lawrence, head bartender at Dandelyan, said: “It is very much in use at Dandelyan, either in small increments or in the much-loved Amaretto Sour, which is still ordered and proudly made.”

In Australia, Mario la Pietra, bartender at Charlie Parker’s said: “The Amaretto Sour never came out of the scene here in Sydney.” Kirsten Holm, owner of K-bar in Copenhagen simply said: “We sell many Amaretto Sours.” With some of the world’s bars and bartenders espousing the merits of amaretto it can only be a positive thing.

The Amaretto Sour and the Godfather (scotch, amaretto liqueur) are undoubtedly the most well-known cocktails using amaretto, but there are also around 120 published cocktail recipes using the nutty Italian liqueur on go-to recipe site Difford’s Guide. Amaretto brands have more to do if they want to expand their presence on the cocktail scene. Matteo Luxardo, export director for Girolamo Luxardo, says: “I don’t think brands are doing enough. Even the big player is investing a lot of energy and money but the only drink that people remember with amaretto is the Amaretto Sour. We need to work more and create new classics with this product.”

Disaronno is the brand that makes up 56% of amaretto volumes (IWSR) and wants to continue making its mark in cocktail culture.

Illva Saronno’s Toni told Drinks International: “We are committed to the bartending community, working together with experienced bartenders to involve and support the younger generation of bartenders. We let them get closer to Disaronno, understanding first the know-how and the investments required to design such a complex and balanced liquid, which differentiates from copycats and is also the secret of Disaronno’s versatility.”

Disaranno has taken a different approach this year to engaging with bartenders. The Mixing Stars competition has been scrapped in favour of the Innovation Hunter programme, in which it looks for new styles of mixing, bar concepts and inspirational bartenders, to video and post up on Facebook. It seems it is carrying the weight of the category on its shoulders. There also appears to be no category consensus or collective mentality.

Toni says: “Amaretto is not actually a category, as the original amaretto is Disaronno – the others are attempts to replicate its taste.”

Indeed, more could be done in non-traditional amaretto markets. Karl Too, bartender/owner at Kuala Lumpur’s Omakase + Appreciate agrees that brands need to do more to globalise the category: “I believe bartenders across the globe need more reference or inspiration to make cocktails with amaretto. To me amaretto has an amazing aroma and taste.

“As a category, amaretto brands need to expand their marketing plan outside of Europe, do something in other countries – maybe Asia as we know Asia’s cocktail scenes is still booming and glowing.”

As its merits amaretto has historic value, bold flavour and a household brand at its centre. But the downfalls are overpowering sweetness, a dusty reputation and a lack of unity among its brands. It’s only through a concerted collective effort that these negatives could be turned around.