There’s a tendency in spirits writing to distil a category into a single talking point. You just don’t understand baijiu, armagnac is undervalued, and did you know how much cachaça is drunk in Brazil? For more contemporary examples see tequila and additives, bourbon and tariff s, vodka and the war in Ukraine.

For pisco, it’s long been the Pisco Wars – the dispute between Chile and Peru over the origin and naming rights of both nations’ national drink. It’s a good story – rarely do spirits have such a crossover with patriotism and national rivalry. But in the constant relitigation of a generations-old squabble, are we missing the vineyards for the vines?

In reality, outside of its homelands, few have any real understanding of the breadth of the category, both within and between its two producing regions.

“If you ask any average Peruvian, or any average non-Peruvian for that matter, they don’t know much about the variety that pisco offers, and that’s a failed message from producers,” says Raúl Otero, managing partner of Pisco 1615.

“It’s not easy. Pisco is complex and it can be difficult to throw all of its complexity at the consumer and expect them to digest it, so we end up promoting the category as a whole. [Peruvian] pisco has eight grapes and three styles and everything can be combined, so we have to find a way to spread the message more easily and not take the fun out of it by making the category a history lesson. Instead, spread the message about the pisco grape varieties. Torontel has a herbal profile that works great in Pisco Tonics, use Quebranta in your Chilcanos, play around with the spirit to know that you have more than one tool to make more than one cocktail.”

Different styles

These single variety expressions of Peruvian pisco are called puros, literally Spanish for pures, and are the most straightforward expression of their grape’s character. Blends of two or more varieties are known as acholados and will present more aroma and complexity, while mosto verdes are distilled from partially-fermented grapes, but Otero suggests walking before running.

“Mosto verdes are something I wouldn’t use to introduce people to the category, they’re distilled from not only the grape juice but we keep some residual sugar too,” explains Otero. “They’re sweeter and more dense and designed for drinking neat. I’d say the first step is to understand puros, then acholados and then if you’re someone who appreciates drinking spirits neat, I’d say bring out the mosto verde.”

And what’s true in Peru is also true in Chile, but that’s not to say that there’s much crossover in terms of style or grape variety.

“Chilean pisco is incredibly diverse, and that’s one of its most exciting strengths,” says Alvaro González Fernández, global export manager of Capel Pisco. “Many people are surprised to learn that it’s not a one-note spirit, it’s much more than just the Pisco Sour. The diversity comes from multiple factors, the use of different grape varieties – Muscat, Pedro Ximénez and others – varied distillation methods from single distillation to double and even triple in one of our products, and the choice between unaged and aged expressions. Each of these elements brings distinct profiles from bright and floral to round, rich and oak-influenced, so there’s a style of Chilean pisco for almost every palate and occasion.”

But with all this talk of versatility and innovation it’s almost ironic that outside of its home continent, pisco is serving its life behind bars almost exclusively in a single cocktail – the Pisco Sour.

“The Pisco Sour has done a lot to introduce the category internationally, but it’s just the beginning,” says González Fernández. “In Chile, pisco is incredibly versatile. We often drink unaged piscos in long drinks mixed simply with tonic, ginger ale or cola, much like you would with gin or rum.

“For aged pisco, the complexity lends itself beautifully to stirred classics like the Old Fashioned or Manhattan. There’s definitely an opportunity for bartenders in Europe to experiment with substitutions in classic cocktails depending on the style of pisco – think Pisco Negronis – where the aromatic qualities really shine.”

In the way a wine list can intimidate the uninitiated without the gentle guidance of a good sommelier, it’s the industry’s de facto frontline educators – bartenders – who can be the ones to spread the message of pisco’s versatility to the masses.

“There are two main markets where we see pisco being developed and worked on – the United Kingdom and Canada,” says Christian Visalli, global spirits managing director at Familia Torres, owner of El Gobernador.

“On the one hand, we’ve seen creative drinks featuring ingredients like celery, rhubarb, tea and exotic fruits. On the other, pisco is also embraced as a versatile tool in [traditional] mixology. Among the many cocktails we’ve seen, there’s one specifically in London’s Three Sheets, which has created a remarkable recipe combining rhubarb and violets.”

Showcasing potential

Otero has found a different centre for innovation with his brand: “Spain is the most developed international market because of the obvious link with South America. It’s where I review what the market is doing, and bars like Sips in Barcelona and Salmon Guru in Madrid have a really good understanding of the category and are showing the potential that pisco has behind the bar.

“Some producers worry that the versatility of pisco might get lost, but I believe the global education efforts around the spirit have been incredible, proving just how adaptable pisco really is,” says Diego Cabrera, owner of Salmon Guru.

“When I speak with producers, I often ask them ‘do you want to sell or not?’ Because if pisco remained confined to just the Pisco Sour, it wouldn’t grow. Expanding its use has allowed the category to evolve, and I think most producers have understood that.

“Pisco is an outstanding spirit for cocktail creation, thanks to its diverse styles and grape varieties. This versatility gives bartenders a broad palette to experiment with, allowing for both classic and unconventional expressions.”

It’s in the hands of a creative bartender where all of this talk about pisco’s versatility really begins to make sense. With that perspective, understanding the differences within the category could eventually become as commonplace as choosing the right whisky for your Old Fashioned or gin for your Dry Martini.

“A few years ago, we began working with aromatic pisco, particularly from the Italia grape, in our cocktails,” continues Cabrera.

“Traditionally, this style was meant to be enjoyed neat or in a Pisco Sour, so using it in other drinks was seen as almost anarchic by purists. However, once we introduced it, it quickly became a favourite, proving there was demand for a fresh perspective on pisco in mixology.

“As we explored further, we incorporated other varieties like Quebranta and Albilla, reinforcing the idea that pisco isn’t meant to be confined to rigid categories. The more we used it, the more natural it became – so much so that we sometimes have to stop ourselves and say, ‘OK, let’s use a different spirit for variety’, because pisco always feels like the perfect choice.”

A bartender like Cabrera is invaluable to a category that believes it has issues translating itself to the consumer. Within his approach at Salmon Guru is a framework for how to view the diversity of the category in a way that doesn’t feel like a WSET crash course or a history lesson on a centuries-old rivalry.

In this industry, if you want someone to want to learn more, start by giving them something delicious.