The bar, in an old gallery space in the Athens neighbourhood of Kato Petralona, focused on creating a circular economy producing fruit wines (that it calls Why-ins), sourdough breads, beer and using the waste to create classically-inspired cocktails.

Since opening, it’s been a mainstay in The World’s 50 Best Bars list, placing number 31 in its opening year, climbing to 12 in 2023 and taking the number six spot last year.

Line’s Why-ins are at the centre of the bar’s drinks offering. Made in-house by the team in collaboration with acclaimed Greek winemaker Thanos Georgilas of T-Oinos, the Why-ins are divided into two categories: Classic and Fancy.

The process behind the Classic Why-ins is inspired by traditional grape wine production, with the only variables impacting the fruit fermentation being temperature, yeast and time.

The Fancy Why-ins take more inspiration from the Line team’s bartending roots. Here, fruit wines are augmented with flavoured distillates, aromas or fresh fruits during the fermentation process.

“The different varieties of fruits produce totally different results,” says Kyritsis.

“Through the same process of fermentation that you would do to grapes, you can produce amazing results with fruits. I see grape wines as like producing tequila, it’s a single style of method and material. Fruit wine is like making mezcal, there are so many different varieties and so many different processes that you can apply using the knowledge of grape fermentation.

“It’s an exciting project for us. It helps the community through our collaborations with local fruit farmers and keeps our team thinking creatively.”

Classic Apple Why-in

Lady and Fuji apples from the Katerini region

Technique: “We juice the apples in our pressing machine,” says Kyritsis. “Then we start the fermentation process, which takes around one-and-a-half months, altering the temperature in order to create the right profile. Once fermentation is complete, we rest the Why-in in metal tanks for a further two months.”

Punch

Aged rum, yogurt whey, leftover tropical fruits, herbs and spices

Delusional Margarita

Tequila reposado, mustard, ketchup, potato water, spices

Classic Strawberry Why-in

Fortuna strawberries from the Manolada region