The Vodka Martini on paper is simple – just two ingredients with a choice of garnish. But there are seemingly endless variables which affect flavour, including temperature, dilution, ratio of vermouth and even glassware. But for this piece, the focus is on the heart of the drink, the vodka.

In this year’s edition of Drinks International’s Cocktail Report, the Vodka Martini was the highest climber. The report is a deck of primary research which reveals the 50 bestselling classic cocktails in the world’s best bars, and the Vodka Martini went from 42 to 21.

It is now the most common vodka-based drink in top bars behind its Espresso and Pornstar cousins. But for vodka brands there is no bigger litmus test than a classic Martini, and one style in particular is gaining authority.

Of the most common raw ingredients – barley, rye, corn, potato and wheat – it’s the latter which is proving popular right now. Within the 10 bestselling vodka brands in Drinks International’s Brands Report, five use wheat as a base ingredient.

The common profile of a wheat vodka is light and delicate with a sweet finish. In the premium vodka market the most famous example is Grey Goose, which uses wheat from the French region of Picardy. The Bacardi-owned vodka is also the number one bestselling in The Brands Report, alternating with fellow wheat-based Ketel One.

Martin Siska, director of bars at Atlantis, The Palm in Dubai, says Grey Goose is his choice for a Martini. He cites a clean, soft texture with a touch of sweetness and suitable for both lemon peel garnish or olives.

In Italy, Altamura Distilleries follows a similar path, using a heritage grain which has been cultivated in the Puglia region for more than 2,000 years and which is used to make Puglia bread with its own protected designation of origin. “I always recommend a classic Martini for our vodka,” says Frank Grillo, co-founder of Altamura Distilleries.

“I suggest in the style of The American Bar at The Savoy with three parts vodka, one part classic dry vermouth and a dash of orange bitters, served with a lemon peel. The umami in the vodka pairs perfectly with a great dry vermouth and the creamy texture of Altamura holds up.”

Talking texture

Le Philtre Vodka is a mix of the above. It is made in the  Cognac region but with organic wheat from northern Italy,  and has recently entered the London market through Cask Liquid Marketing.

“With a Vodka Martini you really need a quality vodka, there’s nowhere to hide,” says Camille Sebbag-Barjon, general manager of Le Philtre. “Cereal vodkas bring a more delicate and rounded flavour, but it’s the texture I like to talk about most because it makes a huge difference in a Martini. A vodka is made up of just the raw ingredient and water, and a Martini is just the base spirit and vermouth, so there’s a nice symmetry. With a wheat vodka you get a drier, smoother Martini.

“Le Philtre gets its wheat from northern Italy because in France, legislation insists that the best that organic wheat is first dedicated to food. We could’ve sourced the wheat from France but we’d have been limited on quantity, which would’ve been problematic further down the line.”

Obtaining quality wheat is one thing, processing it is another. A continuous column still is the most common used in vodka production but there’s a growing trend, particularly for those brands working with quality wheat, towards pot stills. In the early 2010s Absolut launched Elyx, its super-premium line which today has significant following in the US. Tyler Zielinski, author and bar consultant, sees the use of a pot still as a key reason why the vodka is perfect for a Martini.

“There’s never been a greater selection of quality vodka on the market, but I’d say my go-to is Absolut Elyx,” says Zielinski. “At 42.3% abv the vodka holds presence in a Martini, which is of course a high-dilution drink, while others fall flat. All the grain comes from one estate and is distilled in a copper pot still, which provides a robust mouthfeel. It’s also widely available which makes it an even more reliable favourite.”

For Le Philtre, which is made at Maison Villevert, it is distilled six times, with the final distillation occurring in a traditional Charentais pot still.

Ketel One also uses a pot still, while Boatyard Distillery in Ireland, number 10 in the Brands Report bestselling list, is another prime example. The brand traces its wheat back to the individual field from which it was grown before using a copper alembic pot still at its distillery on the banks of Lough Erne, County Fermanagh.

Of course there are great vodkas made from barley and rye which make a great Martini. Even left-field ingredients such as milk and peas are raising eyebrows, but there’s no denying the rising popularity of wheat vodka in a Martini, especially ones using a pot still to preserve those delicate flavours.

The final part to any good Martini is the choice of garnish and, while it’s often mood dependent, Le Philtre’s Sebbag-Barjon simply concludes: “A lemon twist is the best for a wheat Vodka Martini. The acidity cuts through the silky textures.”