The Latin American bars creating a virtuous circle

Sorrel Moseley-Williams reports on how three top Latin American bars are giving back to their communities 

Armed with bar tools and a diploma, 36 students this August completed a six-week entry-level hospitality course in Medellín, Colombia. This wasn’t just any scheme, however – this was a social development programme and the first public-private collaboration between the alcadía (town hall) and Juniper Drinks, which aims to give young people from disadvantaged backgrounds the opportunity to learn a trade.

Known as the city of eternal spring, Medellín is still shaking off the narco-trafficking hangover – but with programmes like this, the future is bright. Brindando Sueños (Fulfilling Dreams) is the brainchild of Juan David Zapata, co-owner of Mamba Negra bar and Juniper. Born and raised in Medellín’s Comuna 13 – which was governed by paramilitaries in the 1990s and known as the world’s most dangerous neighbourhood – Zapata decided it was time to give back to his community.

“I received similar support 13 years ago when Learning for Life granted me a scholarship to study cocktail making and, thanks to that, today I have a job and can employ people in our bars. I wanted to give back a little of what life gave me and give these kids an opportunity, because I know it represents a change in their lives.”

These pelados (youngsters) had already decided to transform their lives, breaking free from pimps and prostitution, leaving gangs or quitting micro-trafficking with the help of the town hall’s Parceros intervention and vocational orientation programme. On completing that, they were then eligible for Brindando Sueños, which was launched hand-in-hand with the first Medellín Cocktail Week last June.

More than 35 bartenders from around the world gave masterclasses at the Eafit University and guest shifts at the 12 participating bars. That was the virtuous circle’s starting point: for every international guest, that bar also had to commit to hiring one of the newly minted graduates. That’s not to say it wouldn’t be without its complications, given that many are used to working in an informal economy but, as of 28 August, nine of the 36 had a job, and an additional 14 had interviews lined up. The aim is for every graduate to be in gainful employment by the end of September, and the next course kicks off this October.

In Buenos Aires, Argentina, the founders of Tres Monos take social responsibility and human sustainability seriously and in 2022 opened La Escuelita to give young people in the Barrio Padre Mugica, a shantytown formerly known as Villa 31, the opportunity to hone practical bar and hospitality skills. Today, the bricks-and-mortar project sees 15 graduates pass through its doors each month and has set up a jobs board. The idea came from Seba Atienza who, from a humble barrio himself, has long seen the need for such an initiative and considers it key to the industry’s future.

“La Escuelita is one of the most important projects we have,” says Atienza. “Not only does it unite us as a team, but it allows us to create real opportunities for young people from neighbourhoods like the one I come from. This type of initiative represents the future of the industry, but above all human growth, which, for me, is even more valuable.”

The Tres Monos group, which includes La Uat and Victor Audio Bar, employs 14 Escuelita graduates. The course was life changing, says graduate Romina López: “Going to the bar has opened many doors and given me tools I didn't know I needed. Working in different areas has been key to my personal growth and the best thing is the continual learning.”

Career opportunities

Besides helping Escuelita grads find work, the virtuous circle has come around: to date, three graduates have opened bars in Barrio Mugica: La Isla, Alcalá and Flamenco.

In sprawling Mexico City, an hour’s drive from Licorería Limantour is Ciudad Retoño, home to the Bartender 1.0 school. Located at a former brandy plant in Los Reyes, a neighbourhood with high crime rates, distilling ceased when architects realised it was located on top of a tectonic plate and that alcohol production had to stop.

Hundreds were made redundant and in a bid to appease the local community, half the site was given over to them to support their needs, such as workshops for former inmates and crêches for single mums.

The Bartender 1.0 course was created by Limantour co-owner  Alberto González Rivas and developed and run by mixologist Raquel Ramos, with the aim of training young people from Los Reyes and then helping them find jobs in hospitality. Tutors include bartenders José Luis León and Pablo Pasti Mangialavori.

Given the distant location from the bar hubbub of Roma Norte and Condesa, it can be difficult for newbies to get a foot in the door. But, Bartender 1.0 will always find a way. “Sometimes they start out in prep during the day or perhaps in restaurants,” says Ramos. “And these kids really persevere. Fer, for example, worked at a hotel where he saved enough to buy a motorcycle. Unfortunately he got run over and was in hospital, but he’s recovered well and now works at Baltra.”

There’s been plenty of effort and uncertainty in setting up these three educational non-profits, but the question they now pose is clear: are you and your bar willing and able to give back to your community?