The 600sq km of Islay is responsible for the vast majority of the world’s peated whisky. Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Bowmore, Ardbeg all produce peated single malt, but the style was born out of necessity. Peat bogs are abundant while forestry is scarce, meaning that distilleries used peat to dry germinating barley, resulting in a smoky flavour. In more recent times, whisky makers around the world have begun adopting peat and integrating it into their own recipes, but there are different ways of achieving this.

In Japan some brands import the raw peat to burn in the malting process while others, before new regulations prohibited the practice, were known to import peated whisky for blending. For single malts such as The Yamazaki, importing peated barley from Islay allows the brand to maintain its single malt status. The Yamazaki Islay Peated Tsukuriwake 2024 employs this process, while Suntory’s Toki Black, which launched earlier this year, uses heavily peated malt and grain whisky from Hakushu alongside whiskies from The Yamazaki and Chita distilleries to form a peated blend. It’s the first variation from Toki since the brand launched in 2016 and Suntory master blender Shinji Fukuyo believes the market is ready for this style.

“I would say the smokiness in Toki Black is subtle,” says Fukuyo. “Peat is not the only character, it adds this boldness and richness to the blend. Japanese whisky has been known for a subtle and more sophisticated flavour, but I think now the market is getting a little bit more mature.”

Taki Nakatani, global brand director at House of Suntory Whisky Portfolio, adds: “I’m excited to see how this product will be received by consumers. We had a PR launch event in September and even the younger generation were enjoying Toki Black. It’s important to understand that Toki Black is not overwhelmingly peaty so it works in a Highball nicely.”

Subtropical maturation
Taiwanese producer Kavalan recently launched its Peatist Series, which includes two single cask strength whiskies aged in ex-bourbon and ex-oloroso sherry casks. “We use lightly peated malt sourced from Europe. The goal is a refined, gentle smoke that complements the tropical fruit character created by Taiwan’s subtropical maturation,” says Kaitlyn Tsai, brand ambassador and global PR officer.

“During distillation, we apply bespoke cut points to capture layered peat aromas, while preserving Kavalan’s signature floral and fruity profile.”

Kavalan previously sold a peated whisky as a distillery exclusive, but after some recent success in tasting awards the brand launched its new range, initially in the domestic market before heading overseas.

“While peated whiskies remain a niche domestically, they are highly appreciated by whisky enthusiasts,” Tsai continues. “We are starting with light peat as a bridge to Kavalan’s established floral and fruity style.

“We will expand based on market feedback and the maturation performance of whiskies at different phenol levels (PPM). We maintain an open approach to cask experimentation, and if we discover combinations that harmonise beautifully with peat, we will certainly consider introducing additional cask types and phenol levels in future releases.”

Islay is famous for its peat bogs, but they aren’t exclusive to the island. In fact, they exist in Japan and Taiwan, but there’s a form of terroir even in mud which affects the resulting whisky. Islay peat is considered the best among global whisky makers for maritime flavour profile, which is a result of the island's coastal environment. Being in contact with salty sea air and within close proximity of the Atlantic Ocean infuses the peat with flavours of seaweed, salt and iodine, creating whiskies that are distinct from those made elsewhere.

“I believe the quality is most important,” adds Fukuyo. “We’ve used Japanese peat before but I think importing it provides the best result.”

With Asian producers favouring the use of Islay’s peat to create smoky malts, there still needs to be some unique characteristics to set them apart from the more traditional Scotch brands. For Suntory, the blending technique offers a more subtle take on peated whisky, while Kavalan’s deliberately light peat allows for an entry point to Asian consumers.

Having been asked about the future direction of Asian peated malts, Suntory’s Nakatani adds: “I would say Japanese peated malts is a kind of hidden gem still for the whisky aficionado. We’ve only scratched the surface, so hopefully we can really do something interesting.”