The latest annual Cava Meeting in September last year raised fresh concerns over the disparity in grape prices between cava and other sparkling wine regions across Europe. Producers, journalists and buyers debated the need to increase grape values in order to raise overall perception among consumers.

Codorníu is the second-biggest cava producer by volume and therefore one of the most influential when it comes to grape prices. In 2018 the company introduced long-term growing contracts to establish longevity and security for its producers, but recent poor yields – a likely side effect of climate change – saw a need to update this model.

“We had double the amount of grapes as last year (2024) but we harvested in half the amount of time. We had good weather until one week before the harvest when the temperature increased, so we had to move fast to control the sugar levels in the grapes,” says Bruno Colomer, head winemaker at Codorníu.

While the yield doubled, it essentially returned to normal after the region suffered consecutive years of drought which stifled growth. Diego Pinilla, director of winemaking for Codorníu Raventos, adds: “In 2022 the yields were very low, which meant that growers were down because they were reliant on good yields. After that we increased the price of the grapes because it was unfair to expect our winegrowers to make less money because of the changing climate.

“But this year (2025), when the yields were back to normal, we didn’t follow other producers and lower the price back down again. We absorbed the cost but it’s our social responsibility to look after our producers and also ensure the future of the region.”

The average grape price at Codorníu is €0.75 per kg compared to the wider region’s €0.30-0.40, but there was a sense of disappointment from Pinilla that other producers didn’t follow their example. According to Pinilla, at a recent meeting with the company’s winegrowers the leadership team received a standing ovation because of their actions but he believes many others remain worried about the future.

Juvé & Camps is another major player in the cava scene and Pepe Hidalgo, technical director at the company, reflects Pinilla’s concerns. “As grape growers ourselves at Juvé & Camps, we are very aware of the true cost, effort and risk behind every kilogram of fruit. We farm 252ha of our own organically certified vineyards, all harvested by hand, which gives us a very clear understanding of what it really takes to grow high-quality grapes. If we want a strong and sustainable future for cava, we need to put real value back into the vineyard.

“That is why we are committed to paying a fair price for grapes, well over double the regional average, because we are focused on quality and on long-term relationships with our growers. This includes a strong emphasis on manual harvesting, which is essential to protect the integrity of the grapes destined for quality sparkling wines.”

Guarda superior

Aside from increasing grape prices, the implementation of Cava de Guarda Superior in 2020 has been an important step by DO Cava to push premium perception. Furthermore, from last year every grape classified as Cava de Guarda Superior must be certified organic. Codorníu currently manages 3,500ha of organic fruit, which is more than 70% of its total production, making it one of the biggest organic wine estates in the world.

Perelada is another prestigious cava producer which works with organic grapes and Delfi Sanahuja, oenology director, sees great value in pushing Guarda Superior. “Cava is part of our history, it has more than a century and a half of tradition. It is important to reinforce what makes cava unique, highlighting our commitment to the land and to socio-economic responsibility,” says Sanahuja.

“To achieve this, it is essential to communicate cava’s distinctive value more effectively, especially by emphasising the Cava de Guarda Superior, its highest category.

“Production using the traditional method allows us to showcase the identity and ageing potential that cava possesses. Likewise, increasing the visibility of long-aged cavas – synonymous with greater complexity, finesse, and elegance – will help strengthen perceptions of quality and uniqueness.

“Increasing its added value in a sustained way in the market could lead to an upward revision of grape prices.”

Xarel·lo

In terms of variety, Xarel·lo is one of the most valued in modern cava production, particularly for longer-aged wines.

Sanahuja adds: “The Xarel·lo variety has shown, and continues to show, a great capacity for ageing thanks to its structured and complex profile. With extended ageing, it produces cavas that are both complex and refined, elegant yet able to maintain their freshness and vibrancy for many years. It is a versatile variety that adapts very well to both younger cavas and long-aged cavas, while also expressing the terroir from which it comes.”

Hidalgo from Juvé & Camps agrees, adding: “Xarel·lo is, in my view, the key variety for high-quality, long-aged sparkling wines in our region. It offers a unique combination of natural acidity, vibrancy and structure that allows quality sparkling wines to age for many years while gaining complexity and maintaining remarkable freshness. At Juvé & Camps, Xarel·lo is truly the cornerstone of our long and very long-ageing wines.

“Moreover, Xarel·lo is an endemic variety of Penedès and has shown itself to be the most resilient grape we work with in the face of climate change. For a winery like Juvé & Camps, which is deeply rooted in the Penedès landscape, this resilience is crucial. Its adaptability to warmer and drier conditions makes it even more important for the future, especially in the premium and prestige segments where ageing potential is essential.”

Juve & Camps has a 100% Xarel·lo cava which spends 24 months ageing in bottle which Hidalgo believes is a style showing significant potential.

“It has been warmly received by professionals, who value it as a clear example of what the variety can express on its own in a traditional-method sparkling context,” says Hidalgo.

“It also appeals strongly to consumers interested in indigenous varieties and in more gastronomic, characterful styles of sparkling wine.

“Beyond sales, these wines play a strategic role in our range by showcasing the full potential of Xarel·lo, both in sparkling and still formats, and by helping to illustrate why we see this grape as absolutely central to the future of Juvé & Camps.”

Codorníu’s Colomer, considered a modern-day godfather of cava, has long advocated for longer-aged cavas and regularly thrills at the retention of its acidity, which is largely down to the robust shoulders of Xarel·lo.

It’s been a turbulent couple of years for cava with its consecutive droughts, but with yields returning to normal in 2025 and quality continuing to rise, Colomer is ever the optimist.

“I truly believe we’re drinking the best quality cava in history thanks to the knowledge which has been passed on.

“When I was young in the industry – 30 years ago – there was not the same knowledge we have today, and it’s exciting.”